Main nave of San Clemente |
We weren't supposed to take pictures, but I decided I wanted to anyway. I figured as long as I wasn't making noise or using the flash that I wasn't really hurting anything (and I didn't see any scary Italian guards either...). We also visited the 4th century mausoleum that is under the nave of the church. It was much more basic down there, and the architecture was completely different. We're all realizing how you really can tell a building's story from looking at its architecture. So many buildings in Rome have been partially demolished and have had parts added and subtracted dozens of times. If you look closely enough, we can tell what happened when, and sometimes even why. It's a pretty fascinating thought.
Trajan's Markets |
Morning light |
We had another walk today, and it was for cartography where we were following one of the prehistoric paths of Rome, defined by the seven hills. First we went into Santa Maria Maggiore, a huge church at the center of a piazza near where our route was. It was one of the pope's favorite churches and was near his villa, so the church got its own piazza. Its beautiful inside and outside, so I guess I can't blame him. We went to Santa Maria Maggiore early in the morning, so the light was coming through the stained glass windows perfectly on all of the marble columns. It was truly a beautiful sight, and its easy to see why so many of these church spaces are considered heavenly or ephemeral.
Our walk led us through some of the less pretty parts of Rome. Some of the streets were really worn down. A lot of the buildings in this area have a lot of history. You see where windows were filled in, and new windows were erected in a different place, or indentations where stairs once were, and a random opening that used to be a door. There are so many ways to be able to tell how Rome once was, whether its clues in the architecture or clues in the papal stone carvings or the detailing. I guess I'm starting to understand why they have us study in Rome. We'd never be able to do anything like that back in the United States. Our architecture just isn't old enough.
Nave of Basilica Santa Prassede |
We went to another Basilica along the way on our walk. Its called Basilica di Santa Prassede. It ranged from having a medieval style to having Renaissance paintings and a Baroque baldacchino. The paintings were very ornate with a lot of Christian symbolism, ranging from the Holy Mother to the twelve apostles, to the evangelists. There was a service going on while we were in there, in one of the smaller rooms off of the main apse. They were singing, and for some reason, the sound was truly beautiful. I don't know if I just liked the song, or thought it sounded really nice in such a grand space. We also saw one of the smaller prayer rooms that were totally covered in mosaics. I've never seen mosaics that were so intact before, let alone an entire room of them.
This basilica was also a spoglia church. The floor was made from stolen columns, and a lot of the entablatures didn't match either. Though its not perfect, I feel that having such a random selection of material gives the space more character, and shows how much history is truly there.
I think that's all for now. I enjoy seeing so many types of churches. I hope we get to see more. We're visiting Rome's original port, Ostia Antica, tomorrow, and I should be visiting France next weekend. It all should be a lot of fun, and it should all be really interesting to see.
Ciao, a presto.